Bensoir! It's me, Benjamin. I like to eat and drink. And cook. And write.

You may have read stuff I've written elsewhere, but here on my own blog as Ben Viveur I'm liberated from the editorial shackles of others, so pretty much anything goes.

BV is about enjoying real food and drink in the real world. I showcase recipes that taste awesome, but which can be created by mere mortals without the need for tons of specialist equipment and a doctorate in food science. And as a critic I tend to review relaxed establishments that you might visit on a whim without having to sell your first-born, rather than hugely expensive restaurants and style bars in the middle of nowhere with a velvet rope barrier, a stringent dress code and a six-month waiting list!

There's plenty of robust opinion, commentary on the world of food and drink, and lots of swearing, so look away now if you're easily offended. Otherwise, tuck your bib in, fill your glass and turbo-charge your tastebuds. We're going for a ride... Ben Appetit!

Wednesday, July 15, 2026

The case for low-alcohol cask

Last week, I drank a cask beer from Downton brewery at the Ealing Beer Festival. Secret Sobriety was the name.

There's nothing unusual about that in itself. I go to Ealing most years and drink a lot of cask ale when I'm there. Downton are a fairly well-established brewery and I've drunk 63 different cask beers from them. However...

It was a good beer. Dry. Hoppy. Easy to drink. What makes this beer so remarkably unusual is that it was only 0.5% ABV. And cask beers at that strength are incredibly rare.  

We are told that the Low Alcohol / Alcohol Free beer sector is absolutely booming. Apparently it has grown 870% since 2013, which is quite astonishing growth, given that the overall beer market has been in long-term gradual decline. AF Guinness has become one of the most popular beers in the country in next to no time (I find it too sweet and malty personally) and lots of big brands now have a low- or zero-alcohol variant available. A success story, definitely, and possibly even some sort of victory for the nation's health and wellbeing.

But it's always a bottle, a can, or sometimes keg. The one thing that LA/AF beer hasn't traditionally offered us is that authentic cask experience. The unique quality and mouthfeel of a cask beer is what marketing wankers might call a 'key product differentiator' or something. There's something about it that you don't get when you drink beer that comes out of a keg, can or bottle.

So why is Low Alcohol cask still so incredibly uncommon?

 

Cask-o-phobia strikes again 

The likely answer will not surprise you. 

In the past there may have been people mumbling about how alcohol acts as a necessary preservative in cask, and LA beer would have such a short shelf-life that it wouldn't be viable. But even if that were true - which it isn't; it's a half-truth at best - it would only be a valid objection when such beers were a niche product, and not in 2026 when they're absolutely thriving. 

Some of us have known for a while that it's not impossible, because extremely weak beers have been put into cask. Just not very often.

People have long forgotten that the original Brewdog Nanny State from 2009 was a cask beer. It was 1.1% ABV, absolutely insanely hoppy to the point that any sense of balance was lost, and never brewed again - the name being used for a more sensible bottled beer at 0.5% the following year that was a lot more drinkable.

But it proved that it could be done. 

CAMRA approved? It should be!
Brentwood brewery have been one of the leading exponents of ultra low alcohol cask beer. In the mid 2010s they introduced BBC1 (1.5%) and BBC2 (2.5%), both good, drinkable examples of 'table beers', though perhaps more hop-forward than they might've been in the past. Their Sleighride was also 1.5%, and in 2019 the same brewery gave us the Jellaini Baobab and Black Tea farmhouse ale, which was just 0.5%. I know most of this beer probably went into bottle, but they did cask some of it, because I drank it at the Pig's Ear Beer Festival that year. And it was pretty good.

Kent brewery also got in on the 'Festive' extra weak beer act (were they trying to be ironic?) with Driving Home for Christmas at 1.8%. Also pretty decent. 

And there is a very longstanding example, from which brewers could've learned if they actually cared to do so: Kvass - not strictly speaking a beer, but a fermented, non-alcoholic bread-based drink popular in Eastern Europe. The more traditional varieties are sold on the street, direct from the 'cask' and have a mouthfeel strikingly similar to really good, fresh real ale. 

Numbers don't lie 

Since I started keeping records I've sampled more than 13,000 different cask beers. My 'Every ABV' series details the interesting journey from weaker to stronger beers and I got to pick out my favourite at every different strength. But it didn't include low alcohol beers because of the complete lack of data. Hardly any very weak beer goes into cask - and believe me, I've tried to find some! The stats speak for themselves:

The number of cask beers sampled at 0.9% ABV or weaker: 2 (literally just the two 0.5 ones mentioned above)

Between 1.0% and 1.9%: 6

Between 2.0% and 2.9%:  54 - so even sub-3% makes up less than half a percent of the total.

To put these numbers into perspective, I've had 1362 different cask beers at exactly 4.5%!

Look, I love drinking beer. Absolutely fucking love it. I probably binge-drink too frequently, given that I feel the need to lie to doctors and nurses about the number of 'units' I get through. 

I'd genuinely like to include more LA/AF options into my drinking routines. But I'm not going to give up cask and I'm not going to give up ticking. It's on the breweries to brew options for people like me.  

The cask sector is obsessed with very specific certain strengths - the tax-relieving 3.4% pint has become ubiquitous, and 4.2% and 4.5% show no sign of going away either. Occasionally you'll find some fairly strong beers put into cask.

So, please, please, just do the same with the sub-3% stuff! There will never be a better opportunity or a more receptive market! 

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